object eye

EVERGREEN — Julia Knüpfer

Welcome to the final instalment of the interview series with designers featured in EVERGREEN: fresh sustainable fashion, in the Project Space at Object Gallery until 24 March, 2012. Read the interview with Holly McQuillan by clicking here and with Georgia McCorkill by clicking here. To find out more about the exhibition, head to our Exhibitions & Events page here, or to continue reading about sustainable fashion, keep reading Object Eye here.

“Working sustainably is the necessary direction for the future… In the design phase we define 90 percent of the environmental profile of a product.”

Julia Knüpfer is a Berlin-based fashion designer, a graduate of Esmod Berlin and winner of the Designer for Tomorrow award at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week in Berlin. Her label icawatermelon combines sustainability with high fashion, using organic cotton and wool sourced from biologically controlled animal welfare.

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What do you love most about designing fashion?

To create something that becomes a tangible reality.

What inspired you to create icawatermelon?

I always had the desire for self-realisation and creative freedom and I wanted to make a positive contribution with my work. I worked for a few companies and realised that I didn´t want to work in a system where every aspect is dictated by commercial considerations.

Why is sustainability so crucial to your practice? Was there a moment that you decided to commit to sustainable practice?

Working sustainably is the necessary direction for the future - not just in fashion, but sustainability should affect the way we all think, process and create. Designers have a new and very important role for the future because in the design phase we define 90 percent of the environmental profile of a product.

When I studied fashion I learned a lot about the problems of the conventional fashion industry and I found it very disturbing. My childhood plays a big role as well. I grew up in a very eco-conscious family.

What are you currently working on?

Aside from my artistic and elaborate pieces I am working on a seasonless and permanent collection. Functionality became more important to me as I see it as an important aspect of sustainability. I aim to produce pieces that are wearable and lasting in terms of material and style.

What is your greatest challenge in producing sustainable garments?

It can be difficult to remain loyal to ethical production and you have to think and learn a lot. It’s not just about using organic fabrics, but also about sustainable business practices, minimising waste and energy consumption and — very importantly — social aspects.

What is your greatest piece of advice to wearers aspiring to make sustainable choices?

Purchase less, and more carefully, and ensure that your purchases last a long time.

Come back next week for the final instalment of the EVERGREEN series, including our pick of the latest resources, designers and information in the expanding world of eco-fashion.

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